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Jun 22, 2008

Cleaning up, making one pretty after the gym

A question was asked by a local magazine:

> After my gym session i have a dinner appointment but the stupid gym
> bathroom is so crowded, people are waiting to use the mirror, hairdryer,
> etc.
> If I only have 5-10 minutes to put on makeup before
> leaving the gym, could you recommend the essential steps to dress my face up?
> (Also, after a run on the treadmill, even after showering, our
> faces would be warm and slightly flushed. Should we take this into
> consideration when putting on makeup? If so, how?)

I thought why only send the reply to the magazine when the information can also be shared on my blog. Answer is as below.
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Cleaning up, making one pretty after the gym.

No time? No space?
The gym too crowded when you're tyring to rush for your next hot date?
No worries!
these are the recoomanded steps!

1) Skip the gym when you have a hot date or important appointment to go to right after the gym, coz in the moment of rush, there will also be no taxi!

2) After the gym, use a gentle facial wash to rinse your face clean using the room temperature tap water. Warm water strips too much moisture from the skin.
Gentle facial wash recommanded is Olay Moisture Balancing Facial Wash, one of my favourite and the one i have been using for two years (and also swears by...).
Costing about Sing$3.6 to Sing$6 depending on where you buy, normally i would have recommand buying from the parallel imports coz the normal stores are ripping us of our hard earn money by rising prices too fast.
Click here to see how does the product look like.

(Note: During ANY exercising you shouldn't have makeup on, not because that your pores are more open, it is because it is disgusting to see sweat mixing into foundation and dripping off your face while you're running on the treadmill. Don't worry about having no makeup in the gym, most of the men there are gay and the rest are too sweaty by themsleves to be bothered about how you look.)

3) Use a tinted moisturiser. This will skip the step of toner, moisturiser and foundation used.
My favourite so far is from Glominerals which sets into a nice slightly matte finish. Various tinted moisturisers (in Singapore market) are too greasy for our tropical weather or they contain alcohol.
Do use a touch of concealer under the eyes if you had a long day and when the dark circles are looking darker than the behind of Darth Vader.

4) For the taoist gods' sake, fill in your eyebrows, this will define ya face better, especially for us Asians.
If you don't, it will definately make an impression when you meet your apppointment without brows (the reaciton of take aback or looking confuse coz they are looking at a focusless face...)

5) Use a skintone eyeshadow or eye shadow base to colour over the eyelids. Why? This is to even out the skin colour on the eyelids, so it looked cleaned out.

6) Draw in the eyeliner. Be it in pencil, liquid or gel, draw it in to give defination to the eyes. You can skip the mascara if your fingers is trembling from the 2kg freeweights ya lifted 10mins ago.
Shu Uemura does wonderful waterproof eyeliners, so does Clarins.

7) A touch of blush on your apples of your cheek. A TOUCH of blush.
Because your facial MIGHT STILL BE flushed from the 5km job on the treadmill (don't know why would you waste time running 5km on the treadmill when the nature is definately much better to run in...), make sure you don't over compensate.
IF you need more blusher later you can add more when you visit the little girl's room.
Great user friendly blushers are from Clinique and Pixi (http://www.pixibeauty.com/ see sheer cheek COLOUR)

8) Lip can always be given a good wash of colour with a tinted lipblam. MAC has a huge range of lip balm / conditioners in tub or stick form.
Laneige does wonderful sheer gloooosssyyyyy lipsticks call Snow Crystal Melting Glossy Lipstick that moisturise and also gives the lips more colour and yet not overweighing it with too much lip colour.

LAST NOTE: if you're still sweating after the shower, do the eyemakeup first before the tinited moisturiser, thsi will allwo the body to cool down before it sweats everything off the face.

This should all be done in less than 5mins, if you understand your own face shape.
10 to 20mins if you are not so familair.
30mins to forever if it's your first time applying makeup on yourself without guidance. *grin*

Last makeup tip....
if you want something easy to carry around which has the tinted moisturiser, the cheek and lip colour all rolllllleeeddd up in ONE. Try Pixi Hydrotint Duo avaliable from Apothecary+Co in Singapore (see link for image of product).

Jun 19, 2008

Applying foundation and what to do with foundation in humid weather

Applying foundation

Preparing the skin BEFORE FOUNDATION

I have never believed in applying too many things upon the skin before makeup is applied.

Click on link to basic skincare recommandation

If your skin is dry, please make sure moisturised skin is supple before applying makeup.

For combination skin, do keep to the already recommanded skincare step.

If you skin is oily or gets oily very easily, please make sure your sunscreen or makeup base is mattifying to prolong the longevity of your foundation.

If your skin is ultra-oily, forget about applying any moisturiser. Use a MATTIFYING SUNSCREEN (example: Neutrogena Sunblock, Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch SPF 30) before applying foundation right after your toner usage.
Reason: your skin will always be "moist", so why put more stuff to allow the foundation to glide off. the Neutrogena sunscreen will set into a nice smooth finish, but use your fingers to massage in the product.

Applying excessive stuff (for e.g. two serums below two mositurisers, one sunscreen over and one makeup base after) will NEVER help prolong your makeup on your skin. The excess moisturisers and silicones will allow the makeup to slide with gravity and sweat as it is too much for anything to hold onto the skin.

LESS IS BEST.

What to choose and how to choose it

1) Choose a foundation according to what your skin type is.
2) Choose the colour closest to your skin tone (two tone lighter than your skin colour doesn't make any sense)
3) Choose the coverage you want (sheer, medium, full) from your foundation.

Very often in hot, humid weather, our skin rarely gets dry except for that fortunate few.
Most will have oily T-zone, perhaps sweat a little or alot around the facial area and comfortable cheeks (which most refer to as combination skin).

Use a moisturising foundation if your skin is truly dry.
Alot of over-moisturised skin will have flaky, topically "dry" skin from excess skin buildup (so DO NOT presume you have dry skin or dehydrated skin, coz you may not have it).
Anyway that is another matter all together for another topic.

Combination skin is normally dry on certain parts of the face and oilier on other parts of the face.
Oilier face ..... mmm i hope it is self-explanatory....

For MY preferance, I love using MATTE finishing foundation for whatever skin type in hot humid weather.
WHY?
The foundation finishes up in a matte texture on the skin.
For drier skins, you can skip using powder on the skin to keep it natural looking.
For oilier skins, use a mattifying powder over on the Tzone and oilier areas for more oil control property.
Mattifying powder such as MAC Blot Loose powder, Glominerals Prefecting Powder, Dior Extreme Fix Powder and Shu Uemura Face Podwer Matte are great options.

WHY skip powder on the drier areas?
Coz we want to keep the foundation as it is.
Semi-matte or slightly matte texture is definately more three dimensional on skin than a flat matte texture of foundation across the whole face.

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Step by Step on how to apply foundation
pictures are drawn by my brother Terry
Start with a clean face. Wash the skin with a gentle cleanser (no matter what skin type). Hydrate using a alcohol-free toner using your hands. Apply moisturiser where needed, before sunscreen on the whole face (during day time), or massage minimum moisturiser on whole face to soften skin before foundation (during night time).


Seperate the face into three portions (as above). Use these 3 different portions as guideline to apply your foundation.
Start with portion 1, apply foundaiton from inner most part of the face and blending out.
If you have excellent skin (in skintone or texture), apply where you need to even out skin colour.

Move to section 2 (on the forehead) and apply a little foundation to balance out the skin tone. Blend abit of foundation into the hairline. Moving to section 3, do the same step as for section 1.

Do apply abit of foundaiton under the eye area.
WHY?
Use the foundation to tone down any discolouration on the undereye, before applying concealer.
That way you can apply lesser concealer and less risk of making it cakey.

Read the next posting on how to apply undereye concealer.

Application of undereye concealer

These are recommanded steps on how to apply concealer.
Method that is prefered by me.
Each different makeup artist will have our own specific way.

Under eye concealing make a difference. By giving enough coverage under the eyes, you will realise the finishing is very polished, even tho minimum foundaiton is used.
The eye and brain perceived the under eye concealment as a more made up look to the face.

NOTE:
If you have very dry (wrinkly) and dark undereye circles, it will be best for you to decide what is the best finishing for yourself.
Remember if you put alot of concealer to remove the greyness, the under eye might end up looking drier and parched. Lines might become more obvious.
If you want the final look to have a less dry or wrinkly finishing, do remember your under eye area will not be as well covered.
So each of a lesser devils, you have to decide.

pictures are drawn by my brother Terry

After a light wash of skintone foundation is used across under the eyes.
Use a Peachy / Warm tone concealer over the greyish darker areas. The warmth of the concealer or corrector will neutralise the greyish, bluish tone so apply sparingly.
You know you have over applied, when after the powder is set there is an orange tone under your eyes.

After the warm/peachy/orangey based concealer is used to lighten the greyness, a yellow based concealer is used from the inner parts of the undereyes and blended out towards the cheekbone. Once again use the concealer sparingly as excess will allow the finishing to look patchy.
NOTE: you need the concealer to TONE down and even out the under eye to make yourself looking fresher and have a more polished finish face.

Powder is applied from outside in. Pat the powder from the outer corner of the eyes and then brush the excess off from the inside towards the whole cheekbone area.
WHY outside in and then inside out?
Patting the powder from outside in will allow to set the powder into the creases under the eyes. Sweeping from inside out will remove any excess. Creating a smooth finishing.

My favourite powder for undereye is from Bobbi Brown, Face Powder in Pale Yellow. GREAT to set under eye concealer with from very fair to Medium darker skintone.
Golden Orange is good for Darker to Very Dark skintones for undereyes powder setting.

My favourite undereye concealers are

For sheer to medium coverage:

-MAC Select Moisturecover
-YSL Touche Eclat
-Dior Skinflash


For medium to full coverage:

- Glominerals gloConcealer
- Laura Mercier Flawless Face Undercover
- Bobbi Brown Corrector and Creamy Concealer
- MAC Studio Finish Concealer


The medium to full coevrage concealers can be diluted down to sheer out with eye cream, moisturisers or foundations. The option is yours.

Na True Takes Steps to Define Natural and Organic Personal Care

Taken off Cosmetics & Toiletries website

An interest group set up some guidelines for the different claims on Natural cosmetics, Natural cosmetics with organic components and organic cosmetics

Na True Takes Steps to Define Natural and Organic Personal Care


[June 18, 2008]

During the Society of Cosmetic Chemists' Scientific Seminar, Tim Kapsner of Aveda Corp. discussed Na True, an interest group consisting of European natural cosmetics companies. Many at the meeting were hearing about the group for the first time. Recently, Na True published a definition for natural and organic cosmetics as well as criteria for a three-tiered label system, based on the product's organic and natural content, that is expected to become valid throughout Europe.

The aim of the group reportedly is to achieve transparency and consistency with regard to the composition and quality of natural and organic cosmetics on a European level. Unlike those for foodstuffs, the criteria for natural and organic cosmetics in Europe are not legally regulated. As a result, there are a number of different institutional labeling systems for these cosmetics. According to the group, these standards are characterized by varying criteria that are often not comparable.

The definitions form the basis for a label with three grades and cover the ingredients allowed and their minimum and maximum proportion of the contents. The Na True definition for natural and organic cosmetics and the label associated with it describe the concrete requirements for the three grades:

1. Natural cosmetics: The first grade contains a clear delineation of the natural, nearly natural and nature-identical materials that may be used in natural cosmetics. So-called traces of other undefined substances are not allowed.

2. Natural cosmetics with organic components: The second grade covers natural cosmetics where a proportion of at least 70% of the natural substances contained in the product stem from certified organic production.

3. Organic cosmetics: The third and highest grade defines natural cosmetics in the form of truly organic cosmetics with a proportion of at least 95% of the natural substances contained in a product stemming from certified organic production.

To view the group's Web site and these definitions online, visit www.natrue.eu.

Na True is composed of leading European natural cosmetic companies including: Laverana/Lavera, Logocos/Logona, Primavera, Santaverde, WALA/Dr. Hauschka and Weleda, which joined forces in the fall of 2007. In the next month, Na True will be defining business partners and the procedure for certification in cooperation with the German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association (Industrieverband Koerperpflege und Waschmittel or IKW).

Jun 5, 2008

Which lip liners I love...

Lip liners.
Many think that they are irrelevant to today's woman's use (or even some men *grin*).
I say nonsense. I love lip liners.
Lipliners can give the slight defination of the lip or bring attention to the focus of your lip. Great for those who have a non defined lip shape OR a weak lip shape.
Use lipliner before/after lipstick and before lipgloss.

I love lip lining for the longevity it gives, for the intense look it can provide, the different look it is able to arm the person with and the manipulation of the lipstick colour.

Longevity it gives.....
Using a lipliner that is similar (do not need to be exactly matching) to your lipstick and filling it up will prolong the lip colour consistancy before it gradually fade out.
But be warn that lip liners being more saturated in colour coz of its texture, tend to be abit (if not much) darker than what you see.
TRICK: Line the lip and slightly colour into the lip before using a lipbrush or finger and gently rubbing the colour in.

Intense look it can provide
Instead of using a lipstick, you can use a lipliner to fill up the lip. That will intensify the lip focus through saturating the liner colour throughout the lip. This will provide a nice matte lip colour.
TRICK: Draw your lipline, fill in the colour by moving the liner 45 degrees and colouring in the liner.

Different look it may arm the person
Paled out lips, nude tones, cutey pinks, shocking orange, matte red, sexy glossy lips. all convey a different look or mood for that person. Using different lipliners and layering with different lip products is able to achieve that attained look. ADJUST THE SHAPE of the lip and the whole look changes.
Use one nude lip liner gives a softer look, whereas a intense purple tone gives a more sculpted lip feature on the face.
TRICK: Play with different colour lip liners to bring out a different look/feel. Play with lip shape to get the different looks!

Manipulation of lipstick colour
Alot can be done to diversify your lipstick coloours. Besides having a zillion lipstick or lipgloss. You can vary your lip liners with different lip colours. Putting a brown reddish lipliner and filling the whole lip up before putting on a neutral tone lipstick can create a more 3-D pouty look. the creation is endless.
TRICK: Play with different colour lip liners to bring out a different look/feel (same as Different look it may arm the person)

My favourite lipliners so far....
ModelCo lip pencil
Consisting of only 5 user friendly colours in

Melon 01

Melon 01

Pomegranate 02

Pomegranate 02

Nectarine 03

Nectarine 03

Plum 04

Plum 04

Cherry 05

Cherry 05

all are user friendly for most people. I love Nectarine the most!
PLUS point! One of the few brands who have a sharpener as a cover. Can be abit messy but the convinence, tho cap can lose its grip after frequent usage.
M.A.C. lip pencil
Started my career using this range and and two of my favourite well loved colour is Spice and Stripdown.
PLUS point! Biggest range of colours!

Shu Uemura Lip pencil
Soft to use and come in a good range of colours, my favourite pink tone for lip liners is from this range (colour pink 375).
PLUS point! Lipliner heart stays moist for a long time when not used.
Glominerals lip pencil
Love the wonderful creamy and never overly matte texture. Tho wishing there are more colours that can be used that can be more user-friendly.
PLUS point! Can be used as a longer wearing MATTE lipstick.Cheapest!!! N.Y.C. lip pencil
Okie range of colours, but wishing there is a bigger range of modern colours, rather than have the range of early 1990's inspiration. Favourite colour is Natural and Bronze Glow.
PLUS point! The cheapest of the lot, costing only US99CENTS!!!!

Jun 4, 2008

Interesting email about "natural" and "organic" claims

Taken off Cosmetics & Toiletries website

Interesting letter taken off C&T website about the "organic" claims of the industry.
Does make the normal consumer think properly.
I agree with
Doug Schoon.
Time to wake up and smell the shitty claims our fabulous industry!!!!

Are 'Organic' Claims Harming the Industry?


[June 4, 2008]


Dear Editor,

Consumers have become confused by the words organic and natural. Unfortunately, some cosmetic and personal care marketers have played a significant role in creating this confusion. The fact is, most substances on Earth are "natural” and the vast majority of those containing carbon are "organic." Some marketers use these words incorrectly and oftentimes inappropriately, and I am concerned this is harming our industry.

In my opinion, telling consumers that products are safer because they are organic or natural is nonsense and not based on scientific fact. I could fill many pages of Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine with examples of potentially harmful substances that are “100% natural and all organic.” This type of marketing can lead consumers to erroneously believe that products that do not make such claims may contain unsafe ingredients and could be dangerous to their health, which is clearly not the case.

Marketing is supposed to be “the truth well told.” What has happened? Scientific truth should be able to coexist with product marketing. If it cannot, then we should collectively ask why. I believe an important step has been the development of meaningful and truthful industry organic standards to help level the playing field and put referees in place to ensure everyone is playing fair. We should all work to educate the public with the truth.

The first truth we should teach the consumer is that organic and/or natural claims do not make cosmetic or personal care products safe; they are already among the safest consumer products available. Appealing names and cool-sounding terms do not make products safe. Instead, we rely on knowledgeable chemists and technicians, ingredient and product safety testing, GMP and quality control, as well as useful warnings and directions. These measures ensure consumers are able to safely enjoy using the cosmetic products that our industry produces.

--Doug Schoon
President, Schoon Scientific and Regulatory Consulting LLC

Jun 3, 2008

Using Pore packs

My friend, Kelly, asked me about using pore pack on her gorgeous skin.
Which i say NO to, coz pore pack contains hairspray ingrediants. This forms a film on your skin when it dries out and the ripping out part does take away some of the blackheads but also takes away first few layers of the epidermis/top skin. On some people that might cause irritation through skin inflamation or topical skin soreness.
The facial lady has been telling her that her nose area have alot of blackheads
(which i think is stupid coz kelly has wonderful skin and the few blackheads doesn't mean that her skin is bad. That facial lady have to stop trying to oversell her services or products).

What i feel about blackheads on the nose...
1) Can't really remove all of it on our nose coz of various factors
a) genetics, unless we're programmed with no/litle facial oil, it's almost impossible not to get them in our weather
b) lessen/stop the moisturiser application on the nose area (for those with oily T-zone) could lessen the percentage of blackheads existing
c) *gentle squeezing will remove the clog pores partially but excessive brute squeezing might damage the pore wall.
d) overmoisturising aids in blackheads forming
e) excess tanning seems to aid in blackheads forming. Tanning allows the skin to thicken more through self protection, and that results in more clogged pores (blackheads or breakouts/pimples alike).

2) Cant really remove all the blackheads coz of our weather. Sweating and facial oiliness do occur in our weather. Blackheads are oxidized facial oils trapped on our pores.

3) If blackheads bother you... STOP YOURSELF from standing too close to your mirror. Unless the other person is 20cm from you or a little asshead who likes to see your skin upclose. Why should it bother you. Porcelain clear skin are but illusions from computer touchups on print ads and only happens in people who are born with genetically great skin.

4) If blackheads does bother you, look out for what you like about yourself. I am sure some of you out there have gorgeous eyes, stunning cheekbones or lusicious lips that others envy. Why be bothered about that little things on your nose area when you have a wonderful face to explore for beauty.

*NOTE:
Gentle squeezing is recommanded using these guidelines.
Using a warmed (NOT hot!) cloth place it over the the nose area for about 30 seconds to 60 seconds. Make sure your fingers are washed clean and finger nails clean before you attempt to squeeze. Further method of cleaning your hands out could be using 70% isopropanol or rubbing alcohol to rub through your hands and fingers (til alcohol dries out) before touching your own face. Remove the towel and gently squeeze the pores. DO NOT excessively squeeze it if nothing come out of the pore. Then move to another area and squeeze gently. Once you feel that enough area is covered from squeezing. Using normal cool room temperature tap water to splash through the face to calm the skin down and close the pores through lower temperature change. Finish up by using a toner on a cotton pad and put onto the squeezed area for about 1min.

Excessive squeezing using brute strength might damage pore wall and in turn might cause pores to look even bigger when aging (due to the collapse of collagen in our aging skin).
Signs of excessive squeezing? Nose looking like Rudolf the reindeer and feeling soreness on the nose area.

Hope you comprehand from the excessive words typed.