To look younger isn't piling on with alot of blusher nor is it slapping on the fake lashes for that "bewildered deer staring into the oncoming headlights look".
Observe the skin of a younger person. It is less lined, skin is clearer (with exceptions of the breakout prone, hormonal charged acne skin) and lips more plumper. Skin has a certain glow and always looking less tired (until the clubbing years starts).
10 tips and products to use to look fresher/younger!
1) Do not overlayer your skin with moisturiser. It is a MISTAKE to overlayer the skin with too much moisturiser.
I do not see why there should be too much moisturiser use due to the humidity, unless you have true dry skin which can get irritated if you do not hydrate enough.
Excessive moisturisers on skin allows makeup to slide off easier, makes the face look sweatier/greasy and do not really soften the depper lines.
Epidermal lines are soften with hydration from a good toner and mosituriser (laden too much and it looks like you dip your face cooking oil).
Hydrate your skin with a good toner, currently I am in love with Neutrogena Fine Fairness Toner for its Vit C presence and hydrating properties.Use fingers and palm to massage the toner into the skin for optimal hydration.
For a gorgeous lightweight hydration before sunscreen (in the day time), I am in love with Caudalie Vinosource range Quenching Sorbet-Creme. This lightweight moisturiser is amazing for hydration on skin before apply makeup on. The packing allows the product to stay fresh longer.
Summary, the cleaner hydrated skin always look younger and supple or than an overmositurise grease-ladened one.
2) Use a lightweight liquid foundation.
Adjust the coverage you need to the product being used.
If your skin is excellent, use a tinted moisturiser or a sheer foundation to even out the skin colour. Try Sephora Light Veil Foundation (avaliable in 6 colours).
For those who want higher coverage, use Urban Decay Surreal Skin Cream To Powder Foundation. Texture like a cream but apply on skin and it finishes to a powder finish. Forget the powder to prevent the powdered look. Less foundation based product on the skin, less lined the skin looks!
3) Use products with film forming agents to lessen the look of lines facial lines. Apply a THIN layer over the affected area (after all skincare, before sunscreen during daytime) before applying foundation. This will coat the area to hold the skin, lessening the look of lines. Can be applied on any part of the face which have lines. Just rememeber not to overlayer products too much. But rememeber these create illusions to LESSEN the lines, nothing will remove the lines except asthetics surgery.
Examples are
>Shu Uemura stage performer signs-off instant replenishing line smoother
>MAC Prep+Prime Line Filler
>Good Skin Labs Tri-Aktiline Instant Deep Wrinkle Filler
>Dior Capture Totale Multi-Perfection Concentrate (yes it can be use as a base for foundation, I am judging on the formulation.)
4) Use a blush that give a glow upon the skin rather than a shocking burst of colours. No fuschia pink, bright orangy coral or a bright red blush will make your skin youthful, instead it turns your face into a DRAG queen doll. Use blushers that give you a beautiful glow.
I love Urban Decay Afterglow Glide-On Cheek Tint for that wash of flush from within! For those with oiler skins, currently I am in love with Clarins Blush Prodige for their user-friendly colours avaliable and that beautiful radiance imparted to the skin.
5) Give yourself a SOFTER COLOURED, thicker brow.
Give yourself a fuller brows. Yes you heard it a fuller brow always do make you look younger (look at the korean stars who keep their brows fuller). The trick is not to make your brows the same colour as your hair. Bring down the brow colour 2-3 tones lighter than your hair colour but filling up the brows more, the illusion is that one is younger.
I love using Cle De Peau EyeBrow Liner (choose the lighter shade).
NO MOREoverpluck eye brows please!!!!
6) Keeping the skin clean looking without the oil slick.
Mattify your oiler Tzone with Sloane Inc Sheer Mineral Powder, keep the sides of the face powder free to sustain the freshness. Powder too much and the skin might appear dull or just pancaked on.
7) Using too light a shade of concealer around the eyes to hide dark undereye circles (resulting in a ring of “light” that makes you look like you have reverse panda eyes).
(Answer lifted off my earlier postings)
I hate that look too. That look occur when people still stick to methods from the late 80's / early 90's when we do not have proper coloured undereye concealers and the reverse panda eyes occur too when some traditonalist love using beige/white eye shadow on the eye circle which will also create the reverse panda look.
For undereyes circle, we always target to lighten what we see.
Redness on the eye area, a yellow based concealer.
Greyness/Blueness under the eyes will need a warm/peach based concealer.
Purpley under the eyes will need BOTH tones.
A good guide for the concealers will be that if there is a strange grey hue on the skin or the concealer appearing ashy on the undereye, IT IS TOO LIGHT and move on to the next darker colour.
For fair to medium dark skin, you can use a very light yellow loose powder to set the concealer.
For dark and deep dark skin, using a warm peachy LOOSE powder will work better.
I LOVE MAC STUDIO SCULPT CONCEALERS for under eyes, the coverage and smoothen out texture is amazing!
8) Lines on the eye lids?
STOP USING PRODUCTS THAT HAVE TOO MUCH SHINE! Shimmery eye shaodws don't dicpict youth. It shoWs lines! Matte and Satin eye shadows appear more flattering on lids. Use taupish pinks and neutral corals to give warmth the eye area. Blues might be in trend but it will not work on a more mature skin.
9) Create a fuller lip for that youthful pout.
Trick?
Using a neutral lip pencil line just on the lipline to create a fuller lip look, I love the texture of Estee Lauder Double Wear Stay-in-Place Lip Pencil which glides on smoothly and has amazing wearing power.
Layer on with a full colour gloss like SILKYGIRL’s Gloss On Lipcolor (avaliable in 9 shades) for that sexy pout. How to acheive that pout? Focus on applying the gloss from the centre of the lips outwards, this placement of gloss from the centre giving the illusion of fullness of youthful lips (tho this will never work with those with VERY thin lips and wrinkly lips)
10) Do not overladen oneself with too much lipcolour if it is a casual look. Give your lips a wash of colour with conditioning effects like Burt's Bees Tinted Lip Balm (coming in march/april). I love the colours of Hibiscus (a clean pink), Rose (neutral red) and Red Dahila (Berry stain) which impart a beautiful glaze of colour while the fantastic formula norishes the dry lips!
Apr 25, 2011
MAKEUP for a younger look!
Cosmetics and how to keep it and how long
For all products (makeup or skincare), NEVER keep it in the fridge.
Why?
1) coz the condensation will dilute the product out when taken out of the fridge
2) cosmetics are formulated to keep in cooler room temperature, the stark temperature change from fridge to the surroundings might cause product seperation in the bottle.
Guideline for ALL products
It is best not to keep cosmetics and skincare in the bathroom as changing humidity (from hot showers), the constant change in temperature and all light exposure (sun or floourescent) will degrade the products faster.
Best to use products in a pump bottle or squeeze tube rather than products in a tub, as the constant opening of products in a tub always aids in oxidising of the product.
If your product has clear packaging which allows light to pass through (be it glass or plastic), always aluminium foil to cover the clear area. This will optimise your product from breaking down from light exposure degradation (or if you are a environmentalist, keep it in a cool and dark place (aka the cabinet in your main room away from direct sunlight and heat)
Guide for cream products (cream blushers, foundation, eyeshadow)
-Never leave product expose to air for prolong period of time. Keep all cream products in a airy darken area (still air area normally allows mould to feed off the moisturisers in the product)
-Try not to touch the product directly as it can transfer bacteria/mould into the product. The easiest way is to use a clean spatula (swipe 70% alcohol onto the spatula before scooping product out, or use 70% alcohol on hands before using makeup)
Change gel/cream based products every 6 months to 1 year (even faster for products used on eye area)
Waxy based concealer / Stick foundation / Cream Blush / Cream Bronzer / Lipsticks /Lip liner= 6months to 1 year
Gel eye liner / liquid liner/ Cream-Silicone eye shadow /Lip Gloss / pencil Eye liner = 6months
Mascara = 3-4months
NEVER Share Your Cosmetic Products with anyone, it is a common cause that eye infection is transmitted through sharing eye makeup.
Perfume is aways kept from direct sunlight and high flucuating temperature places as light and the varying temperature breaks down the fragrances and alter the scent.
How can you tell when the products have gone bad? Will they change colour, consistency, smell etc?
Makeup products will change colour, lipstick will be rancid AND can turn mouldy. Cream makeup can turn mouldy (NEVER scrap out the mouldy part and continue to use, once it is spoilt the WHOLE thing is spoilt)
If an unopened product has already gone past its stated expiry date, can you still open and use it?
Open it all you want, but forget about using it. Using it just increases the risk of using a bad product.
Even better tip: Stop stocking up, it never is worth it to stock up.
HD makeup, High definition makeup... My thoughts
Questions on High-Definition makeup (from a humid weather country like Singapore aspect):
What defines high-definition makeup? (It is the technology used to create it, specific ingredients, for example?)
The claims that HD makeup define itself is that it is made up of micronised pigment with various percentage of light reflectors able to bounce light to give the illusion of flawless makeup of natural finishing. There are claims that HD is better because it is unlikely to to streak and is less likely to be patchy. The claims are also said that they look better on film, photographs, TV and close ups, due to the change of HD technology in the cameras which picks up every slight flaws. Example Cameron Diaz's skin (from Charlie's Angel movie) on HD TV shows her more flawed skin than an airbrushed picture of her on magazine. And of course the claims goes as far as saying that it makes your skin flawless and younger.
FACT: Any good formulated foundation/makeup used properly on properly prepped skin gives the illusion of flawless, younger skin.
TV folks (eg certain reporters on camera and other TV/cable related shows) have been using too much foundation for TV, and normally will be picked up by the camera but only visible due to the new flat screen HD TVs now. Even my mother can see on her new Samsung flatscreen that which reporter/actor has been putting on too much bronzer/eyeliner/lipgloss/blush/eyebrow pencil and these are only the men!
THE TRUTH is to use foundation that has amazing texture and I am talking about those of the LIQUID / CREAM silicon types that have the right colour.! Pancake/two-way/powder foundation will appear chalky on HD if skin is not prime properly. Such foundation in powder product can increase the coverage if needed comparing to loose powder, but for HD we have to use it in MODERATION.
It is past 2010, a lot of LIQUID foundations out there have the RIGHT colour avaliable and if that brand do not have the colour for tanner skin; OTHER brands will carry the products for tanner skin.
With smarter formulations and better textured foundations, everyone will have illusionary great skin some day!
Amazing foundations that goes well on skin and shows well on HD TV.
-MAC Studiofix Fluid range, StudioTech foundation range and Select Foundation range
-Urban Decay's Surreal Skin Cream To Powder Foundation
-Shu Uemura's Face Architect liquid foundations
-Laneige's Snow Crystal Dual Foundation
-Cle de Peau's Refining Fluid Foundation
-Clinique's Superfit Makeup
-Givenchy's PHOTO’Perfexion foundation
-Korres's Wild Rose Brightening Long Lasting Foundation spf 20
-Estee Lauder's Nutritious Vita-Mineral Liquid SPF 10/PA++ Makeup
-Lancome's Teint Miracle Foundation
These are good for the general use people (not only TV/media/whatever), but those with very obvious uneven skin colour, you have to try using two or more liquid foundations/concealers to bring your shade together.
The way to maximise such amazing textures of foundations is to always prep the skin. A very hydrating facial toner that is alcohol-free, a touch of moisturiser and MAYBE a blend of makeup base before the application of foundation. I find that layering too much product upon the skin in humid weather do not really work, as the excessive layering might have too much product built up, making the foundation too obvious. Even worse when we perspire in this heat as the makeup distablised and streaking/patchiness occur.
TIP: To apply abit to even out the skin colour before layering more WHEREVER IT IS NEEDED.
Eyeshadows are best when they are more matte or satin. Frosted or sparkly eye shadows are obviously seen on HD recording and the wearer (he/she) can look like they are ready to go out on a nightout...at a STAGE PERFORMANCE. Garish colours that is not blended properly will end up looking like the person just got dragged out from last year's Xmas decoration (you get my point).
Blabbering so much, the point is.. less is best and blending is important. No more spider legs of mascara for your lashes, no more thicker foundation to as to “smoothen” out the skin (or you look like ya ready for Miss Tiffany Universe competition, google for it if you don't know what I mean), even that gloss glossy lips will make you look like you forgot to wipe your lips after dipping them in olive oil).
Do you use high-definiton makeup for your clients? When did you start using it?
Of course I do, ever since I was with MAC and trained by Celestine Sng to blend the correct foundation colour!
Like I mentioned above. HD foundation is a foundation which has an amazing texture of right pigment and texturisers in it to give it an ability to blend well into the skin.. They are normally sheer to medium coverage, so coupling it with a concealer work well for higher coverage.
For eye/cheek makeup to be HD, there should not be excessive layering of powders/creams on the lid/skin. It is more about blending and not trying too hard makeup. Neutral tones like taupes, warm pinks, peaches/apricots (colours not the fruit basket) and browns always work better for HD close ups.
Lips should always be conditioned well before anything. Lip products can be obvious if the lips is not soften before makeup goes on. Of course the neutral tones like mauves, taupes and brown pinks are always best for HD. But like I mentioned a million times, preping the skin well enough, everything will look put together.
Basically it is all about the PRODUCT BLENDING. Always have been about blending.
How is high-definition makeup different from other kinds of makeup, especially other foundations & powders?( for example, there are micro particles and pigments that adjust to light in any good light-reflecting makeup and mineral makeup also has similar light-reflecting properties)
please see number 1 for my long long write up
I don't get about the gist of mineral makeup. A lot sparkle too much or just look chalky. TALC is a mineral composed of hydrated magnesium silicate with the chemical formula H2Mg3(SiO3)4 or Mg3Si4O10(OH)2. It is a mineral too and it is just marketing madness to say it is not. (http://www.webmd.com/health-ehome-9/mineral-makeup).
Alot of mineral makeup has bismuth oxychloride in it which is known to cause reaction in certain skin, but creates a beautiful sheen on the skin.
Very few mineral makeup does good mineral based makeup anyway, a lot has overhyped over priced products.
How exactly does high-definition makeup work?
Summary is that HD foundations CLAIM to provide coverage without feeling or looking too thick. They contain photochromatic particles that reflect light instead of absorbing it, blurring fine lines and imperfections … just like a well formulated foundation will do ..... (-.-#)
Could two products, say foundation, contain the same key ingredient but one product be a regular foundation and the other one be a high-definition one?
Yep. All depending how good the formulation is.
Which skin types/ conditions benefit best from high-definition makeup?
All skin types. Oilier skin with big pores can only be tone down for a HD shot. Removing the big open pores to have flawless skin is a big problem that needs more than just makeup and cement. *Dead panned face* It is like trying out to smoothen the moon surface.
Is high-definition makeup only beneficial to people in the spotlight behind cameras?
Makeup is just makeup. We use makeup for everyday use to create an illusion of better rested skin, even out skin toned and a youthful face. So HD makeup can be beneficial to all that needs it.
What are the most useful/ must-have products (not necessary to mention specific brands, but if you wish, that’s fine too) for someone behind the camera?
Most brands have great products for HD usage. Just be careful if the product appear chalky on your skin. It'll appear chalky anywhere.
For foundations I have already mentioned aboved.
For eyeshadows, MAC, Bobbi Brown, Shu Uemura, Urban Decay, Cle De Peau have a good range of colours for that beautiful smooth application but with good colour payoff.
I love blushers (besides the above mentioned brands) from Laneige, Clinique, Givenchy and Korres who has user friendly colours that look great on HD.
Lip colours from Estee Lauder, Lancome, Paul&Joe and Anna Sui does beautiful range of colours that everyone can use.
Even generic brand lip products like Revlon, Maybelline and Silkygirl have a wonderful range of lip colours and glosses!
What about the most useful/must-have high-definition products (brands unnecessary unless you wish) for someone with a regular office job?
The most important thing for me or the rest of humanity for someone who have a desk bound job is to give yourself a polished look, which means
a. DRAWING IN those damn eye brows and filling them correctly;
b. Using the correct colour foundation so we will not see a white mask on your face as we all head to work;
c. Use a brown pink (or something warm( blush for some colour on your face. Shocking pink on your apples just remind me of the 7th lunar month ghost festivals effigies;
d. Please use some lipblam or a moisturising lipstick to give colour to your flakey paled out lips;
e. Fake lashes that is 3 times long than your own, used for a desk bound job is just stupid looking. Please use eye liner or just natural HUMAN HAIR based eye lashes of NATURAL length. What you think is cute long lashes, reminds me of japanese anime porn.
What are the most useful products for looking good outdoors, at a picnic, garden party or doing sports?
Sunscreen?
HAHAHAH...
It is sunscreen. And a touch of concealer wherever a person need (and the basics of filled in brows and lipbalm with spf). It is the EQUTORIAL SINGAPORE outdoors. It is always humid, sticky and hot (tho sometimes it can be cooler and drier) so using minimum stuff will make a person's skin more clean looking.
Are application techniques the same for HD foundation, powder, primer, mascara etc?
Please see what I mentioned before.. Less is best and with a lighter hand. It is about looking polished. NOT piling up.
BB Cream and my thoughts
1. BB (blemish balm) creams were originally formulated in Germany (and the crazed hype started in Korea) for use after aesthetic procedures like lasers and peels, to provide coverage and promote skin-healing. Would you use BB cream after such procedures? Why or why not?
I will suggest using BB cream if only it is not an ultra invasive procedure. The use of BB cream on lightly powered lasers and peels can aid in providing protection from the thinned out skin. But I will be wary if it is something more deeper. That will have to leave to the decision of the physician carrying out the procedure.
2. What is your understanding of a BB cream?
My take and understanding of a BB cream is a PHYSICAL sunscreen (with Titanium and/or Zinc Oxide based) with a thicker texture and an opaque finishing. In summary, it is a physical sunscreen mostly (but some brands do add in chemical sunscreen or use entirely chemical sunscreen formulation.)
3. Many non-Korean brands like Estee Lauder and Lancome, have launched BB creams of late. Do you reckon they are much different from their Korean counterparts?
Nope. They are similar as they all have to provide the slightly opaqueness to provide the BB cream claims. Not all Korean brands are made equal. I find that Estee Lauder, Clinique and MAC BB cream provide better formulation (in antioxidants) than some of the Asian brands BB creams out there.
4. Can you use a BB cream alone without any skincare and/or moisturiser, since it’s supposed to contain a myriad of skincare ingredients?
Yes. To allow the physical sunscreen to move upon the skin, various products in texturisers and moisturising properties is included into the BB cream.
to use it alone is best for those with oilier skin as drier skins might still need to place moisturiser before the BB crema goes on (or BB cream might appear patchy).
Not all BB cream is created equal in their skincare ingredients, some have nonsensical claims.
5. If it cannot be used alone, how different is it from a tinted moisturiser with SPF? BB creams often come in very limited shades, so how do you make the most of a BB cream?
Not all BB cream can be used on all skin tones. Medium to darker skin tones will find a strange greyish hue casted upon the skin upon BB cream application (from the titanium/zinc oxide). Unfortunately BB cream makers have yet to discover or find the importance of increasing the warmth tone of the BBcream to counter this effect.
For those skin tones that has amazing skin texture and laziness to apply much stuff, a tinted moisturiser with SPF is best for them (Try Urban Decay Urban Defense Tinted Moisturizer SPF 20 or Smashbox Sheer Focus Tinted Moisturiser for tanner skin).
Basically, medium to dark skin should stay off BB cream until the BB cream makers can wake up and smell the roses that everyone is born with different skintones and cater to that need.
6. Does a BB cream clog pores since it contains so many ingredients?
Texturisers and product fillers that can clogs pores. Also, it depends on the person skin. Some people break out from using anything with texturisers/fillers in them. Some you can layer pure olive oil on their skin and their skin remain dry/parched.
To keep the BB cream lightweight, I will suggest to stop overloading the skin with too much moisturisers/serum/products. Titanium or Zinc oxide based sunscreen are not recommanded for those with Acne sensitive skins, as they are known to aggrevate acne conditions. Always try out before buying.
7. What’s the best way to choose a BB cream?
Use a pea size of the product and spread it upon the back of your hand. Chances of it turning the back of your hand grey will turn out worse on your face.
Also the BB cream admist of all the claims and bullshitting by marketing, it has to feel good on your skin. and YES, it has to feel like a thin layer on your skin to protect your skin (same advice for all sunscreen out there).
Which nude lips works best for me?
Nude lips
Almost everyone wants to do a nude lip. But so much like other "unsafe colours" (e.g. reds or bright corals), everyone is fearful of using it.
To simplify the explaination of nudes is like asking someone to use the colours of our skin to our lip.
FACT: We do not have to use FULL COVERAGE lipsticks to create a nude lip! Washes of beiges to tone down our original lipcolour works well too! We can use even nudes with bits of tinge mauve/pink/peach to tone down our lips colour but leaving a touch of colour behind so as to prevent blotted out looking lips. soft lingering hues of pinks, peaches and even dark browns (for very dark skin) will look beautiful as well.
Full coverage lipsticks can pale out the lips with just one swipe, sheer lipsticks are beautiful for very dry lips to even the tone out. Everything inbetween is just based on comfort level and coverage wanted.
Those with even toned lip colour generally can use alot of nude lip colour as their lips are consistent.
For ladies who uses lipsticks and the eventual lipcolour is always pinkish/purplish, they have blue undertones for their lips and warmmer neutrals can always tone it down and even it out to a pure nude.
Always flustered reddish lips can be toned down with a neutral yellow/gold toned skin colour lipstick.
We can always use a small swipe of liquid foundation upon the lips, but knowing most people lick their lip product off too often. I suggest little or no foundation to use upon the lips.
Always condition the lips with a irritant free lipbalm before apply any lipstick.
I love Neutrogena Lip Moisturizer SPF 15, Badger Baby Balm (avaliable from any good organic supermarket) and Eco Lips Coconut Lip Balm.
How to apply a good nude lip
1) Follow the below colour guide to nude lip sticks to pick.
2) ALWAYS condition the lips and prevent dryness before nude lipstick application. Good way is to apply a generous amount of recommanded lip balm onto the lips.
3) Leave for 1-2mins, and then using a BABY TOOTHBRUSH to slough away the dead skin cells. This will leave lip soft and flake free.
4) Use a touch of LIQUID foundation to go around the lipline. This will soften the lipline to make the nude lipstick consistant.
For those with thinner lips, pump up the lipline with a liner similar to your own lip colour.
5) Apply in the lipstick and viola.... beautiful nude lipss!
I have divided the skin tone and general lip tones accordingly, and obviously we know that each skin tone is a general guide and do not co-relate to a specific ethinicity (due to the recent years of sun WHORESHIPPING some genetically fairer skinned women have gone 6 times darker), hence me picking women from all ethic groups.
Fair tone skin
(from very fair skinned to medium light skinned Zhang Ziyi/Fann Wong to Jessica Biel/Rebecca Tan)
>Light coloured lips on fair tone skin
Shu Uemura's Rouge Unlimited in PK 323 (sheer cool pink)
Clinique's Lon Last lipstick in 03 Creamy Nude (light beige pink)
Urban Decay's Lipstick in Peroxide (washout pink shine)
Anna Sui's Lip Rouge Glossy in 700 (sheer true nude)
>Bluish tinge lips on fair tone skin
MAC's cremesheen lipstick in creme d' nude (clear nude)
Shu Uemura's Rouge Unlimited in 205 (neutral beige pink)
Clinique's Buttershine lipstick in 441 Adore you (sheer beige)
Paul and Joe lipstick N in 07 (neutral light beige)
>Reddish tinge lips on fair tone skin
Cle De Peau's lipstick in T4 (full coverage pale nude)
Clinique's High Impact Lipstick in 03 In A Nutshell (true nude)
Estee Lauder's Singature Lipstick in N24 Perfect Nude (neutral beige)
Chanel's Rouge Allure in 59 Nude (just plain nude)
Medium tone skin
(medium to medium dark/olive skintoned like siti nurhaliza, jessica alba, salma hayek and rihanna)
>Medium coloured lips on medium tone skin
Mac'S matte lipstick in honeylove (mid-neutral nude)
Shu Uemura's Rouge Unlimited in PK318M (matte neutral pink)
Paul and Joe's Lipstick N in 06 (warm nude)
Chanel's Rouge Coco in 03 Secret (mauve nude)
>Bluish tinge lips on medium tone skin
MAC's Satin lipstick in Peachstock (warm neutral)
Urban Decay's lipstick in Sellout (neutral rose)
Cle De Peau's Lipliner in 101 (Matte Tender Rose)
Paul and Joe's lipliner in 03 (neutral beige spice)
>Reddish tinge lips on medium tone skin
Cle De Peau's Extra Silky Lipstick in 121 (sheer wash of light beige)
Anna Sui's Lip Rouge Vivid in 760 (peachy nude)
Sephora's Maniac Mat Lipstick in 11 (neutral beige cream)
Dark tone skin
(Tanner caramel skin to deep sexy burgundy skin like South Indian Actress Sneha to Halle Berry/Tyra Banks to Michelle Obama/Gabourey Sidibe)
>Dark coloured lips on dark tone skin
Clinique's High impact lipstick in 02 Nude Beach (midtoned brown)
Cle De Peau's Extra Silky Lipstick in 122 (sheer wash of coral beige)
Sephora's Maniac Mat Lipstick in 17 (mauvy toned nude)
Urban Decay's 24/7 Lipliner in Envious (medium berry, works well for those with gorgoues pitch black skin)
>Bluish tinge lips on dark tone skin
MAC's Lip Pencil in Stripdown (neutral midtone beige)
Urban Decay's 24/7 Lipliner in Heavy (shimmering nude)
Estee Lauder's Doublewear Lippencil in Spice (neutral powdered nude)
Laneige's Snow Crystal Melting Glossy Lipstick in DY432 Skin Beige (moist taupe)
>Uneven tone lips on dark tone skin
MAC's Matte Lipstick in Taupe (warm taupe)
Cle De Peau's lipstick in T2 (toffee nude)
Estee Lauder's Doublewear Lipstick in 07 Stay Mocha (matte taupe cocoa)
EYEMAKEUP TO ACCOMPANY NUDE LIPS
For the oriental Asian faces, I will suggest to fill in the brows before doing such a nude lip. The brows will allow to frame the face better.
For the stronger asian faces, always cover up the undereye circles and even out the skin tone before doing the nude lip. Or the nude lip will bring focus to any uneven skin colouring and tired looking eyes.
Feel free to create a basic smokey eye makeup or intensify it with a sexy strong smokey eye.
Give abit of warmth to the face with a sweep of blusher or a wash of bronzer to bring the skin tone out.
Applying Eye makeup for Asians (prepared in May2010)
3 proper ways of applying eye makeup
To bring out the eyes more, we alwyas try to keep the skin looking polish and clean. A touch of concealer, drawn brows for facial definition, a touch of blush and even a wash of gloss or lipbalm can create an amazing clean look.
The eye colours used are all neutral brown tones as we want to create and play with depth. The shine/sheen is added in as an accent to bring out certain features. Alot of asians love glitter/shine on the eyes which I dislike as the shine create a flat shimmery surface and not a chic smartly highlighted eye focus.
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>Normal eye shape
1) Apply a base skin tone colour across the whole eye. In the makeup, I used MAC Eye Shadow in Brule as I love the soft sheen it has and the beautiful neutral colour that evens out the whole eye lid.
2) Using a taupe colour, we blend with a fluffy brush from the end and give the eye a slight contour to enhance the natural depth of the socket. I love using Shu Uemura Eye shadow in M810 (a matte taupe with golden flecks) for that shaping process.
3) Continue on the lower lashline by using a pencil brush and blending that same taupe colour on the lower lashline. This will give subtle enhancement to the eyes by giving focus.
4) To create a bigger brighter eye look, use Cle De Peu's satin eye colour in 103 Pink Gold. The warmer tone of this eye shadow will brighten the inner eyes, giving a fresh bushy eye look.
Leave the eye liner off, but sweep on one coat of mascara (brand placement please) to keep that natural look
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> Smaller, longer eyes
1) Neutralise the eyelid with Benefit's Stay Don't Stray (stay-put primer for concealers & eyeshadows) and also to hold the eye shadows longer.
2) I suggest using Givenchy's Le Prisme Yeux Mono in 14 Elegant Taupe so to have that depth (from using the matte texture out fo the 4 different textured powder), dab on each side of the eye and blend towards the eye socket.
3) Use the beautiful light apricot shimmer eye shadow from By Terry on the eye lid. Place it just above the pupil and blend towards the eye brow. This helps open up the eyes by bringing out a bigger surface area to the lighter part of the eye (the whites), hence bringing the pupil into focus.
4) Load on the mascara with Clinique's Lash Power Mascara Long Wearing Formula, the thinner wand is fantastic for the shorter asian lashes. Put up to 3 coats of it to have that oomph to the lashes!
TIP: Curl your lashes before mascara. To keep the lashes upwards, you have to allow the mascara formula to be drier. After taking the wand out from the tube, dab away any excess mascara on a clean tissue paper. Wave the wand around for about 3-4 seconds to dry it out. Zig zag to coat the lashes. Do the same step over 3 times, and you have beautfiully thick and LIFTED lashes!
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>Rounder eyes (to elongate)
1) Even out the skin colour and create a sheen by using Urban Decay's Eyeshadow Primer Potion in Sin.
2) Using a gel eyeliner (I enjoyed using the intense midnight blackness of Cel De Peu's Intensifying Cream eyeliner in 101 Deep Black), dot 3 TINY parts of the lash line; the front the centre and the end.
3) Using the eyeliner brush, join this three dots together into a thin line on the lashline. (using step 2 and 3 allows a easier way to apply for those novice or those of buttfer fingers by providing a "guideline".)
4) Elongate the end of the lashline extending the line out (use the lower lashline as a guide for the angling of the line). Then connect the end of that line to the centre of the line drawn, this will create a slight triangle. Colour in the triangle and viola! you have got yourself a eyeline with a tilt!
Proceed with alot of mascara to complete the look!
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Wrong makeup.
Things I hate when I see badly applied eye makeup.
1) Eye makeup without a polished finishing (no eye brows drawn, no even out skintone by using any foundation/concealer)
2) Eye makeup that is not properly blended or patchy.
3) No makeup at all, except for eyeliner on the lower lashline (that makes the face looks more depressive sucidal than to the conturary belief of "opening up" the eyes)
4) Too much mascara that resembles cockroach legs
5) Eye shadows that is blended too far from the end of the eyelid, which resulting in dragging down the eyes making the eyes looking droppy
6) Eyeliner top and bottom of the eyelids might not work to "make the eyes bigger" as some said, depending on the eye shape and size.
Best Buys below $30 (product prices last checked July 2010)
All listed in Singapore dollars
Facial washes
1) Oil of Olay Moisture Balancing facial wash
2) Nivea Visage Refreshing Facial Wash Gel
3) Neutrogena Liquid Pure Mild Facial Cleanser
4) Neutrogena Fresh Foaming Cleanser
5) Loreal Revitalift Milky Foam
Why I loves these facial washes?
Coz they are below $15, why pay for a over $20 facial wash when it all washes down the sink?
These formulations are a dream for being gentle to skin without stripping away too much from the epidermis and yet able to wash light makeup off.
My love is still Oil of Olay Moisture Balancing facial wash.
Toners
I am picky about my toners and I am only in love with TWO from the generic market (also arranged by pricing)
1) Garnier Aqua Defense Refreshing Toner
2) Neutrogena Fine Fairness Toner
I realise alot of the mass market toner formulations are crap or just nothing but just water and alcohol.
Serum/Essence
(to be used as a lightweight moisturiser for our weather, great for oilier skins before sunscreen)
1) Neutrogena Fine Fairness Essence (below $29.90)
2) Olay Renergerist Serum (price stupidly increased to $39.90)
SunScreen
-Neutrogena Sunblock, Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch SPF 30
-GARNIER UV PROTECT Advanced daily UV blocking lotion with Mexoryl SX/XL SPF 50/PA+++ Pure Vitamin E + Hydra-active complex (in peach tone)
-Coppertone Oil Free Sunscreen Lotion Faces Spf30
-BabiesOnly clear zinc sunscreen spf 30+ (from Sephora, less than $30!)
My Favourite Generic makeup (arrange in accordance to brand name)
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Loreal
True Match Blush at $18.90
-The True Match Blush glides on like a dream with it softly milled texture.
True Match Makeup base $18.30
-True Match Makeup base gives a soft moist touch to the skin before makeup is applied.
True Match Concealer $16.90
-True Match Concealers normally have a good range and sits beautifully, tho less than medium coverage.
Glam Shine Lipgloss $18.90
-Glam Shine lipglosses gives a beautiful colour impartment to the lips.
Maybelline
EyeStudio Cream Gel Eyeliner in Black and Brown $19.90
-Great for 1st timers to practise and use before moving on to a better lasting gel liner from MAC, Bobbi Brown or Stila. Comes with a average brush.
WaterShine Pure Lip Colour $13.90
-Great for drier lips or consumers who like a slight colour tone to the lips. Moisturising.
Color Sensational Lipstick $15.90
-Great colour imparted to the lips. Creamy and beautifully textured. Very similar to Lancome's Colour Fever lippie.
Most maybelline mascaras are just BEAUTIFUL! They share similar properties to their more expensive luxury brands like Lancome and Shu Uemura. Current favourite is Unstoppable Shiny Black Mascara.
Revlon
Colourburst lipstick $21.90
-Smooth Creamy textured lipstick with beautiful full coverage colour payoff.
Strangely similar packing to Dior's lipstick.
Colourstay Mineral Blush $24.90
-Not really mineral but very user friendly colours
Superlustrous Lipgloss $18.90
-My favourite generic brand lipglosses for the past 4 years. Good texture, gives good shine and beautiful user friendly colours. Too bad it costs 2.5 times more than the US, so i get mine ship in from the US.
ColorStay Lipliner
-beautifully applied on texture and neutral colours
ColourStay Press Powder
-One of the best press powders from the generic brands with amazing good colour range tho disapppointing that they don't carry darker tones for the tanner asians (stupid sales and branding choice)
Silky Girl
Moisture Max Lipgloss $11.90
-Good texture and good pretty colours
Moisture Max Lipstick $13.90
-Surprisingly good texture and easy to use colours
Silky White liquid foundation $12.90
-My favourite find! Cheap and great texture. Dries to a semi-matter finishing, can set without powder.
Lipliner $8.90
-ONE OF THE MOST AMAZING TEXTURED LIPLINERS I HAVE EVER USED! Glides on like a dream!
Eyeliner $9.90
-Water resistant eyeliner but with a good range of colours for everyone!
How to copy this look for everyday use in humid climate?
Image taken off Elle.com, featuring DKNY Fall RTW 2010 makeup
Step by Step in doing DKNY Look (pre-adjusted to suit our humidity and asian faces)
1) Place a silicone base first acorss the whole eye lid and blend into the brows (to make eye makeup last the whole day til night!)
I SWEAR UPON URBAN DECAY Eyeshadow Primer Potion in original for its stunning power to prolong eye makeup!
2) Use Shu Uemura's Cream eye shadow in Matte Sand brown and place it along the top and bottom lashline. Put more of the cream product at the outer contour of the eyelids to create depth.
3) Use a neutral warm brown (Cle De Peu's Satin Eyeshadow in 111 Brown Opal) and sweep across the whole eye lid. Starting at the lashline and blend it outwards towards the eye brows. The eyeshadow should be intense at the lashline and then fade out to almost nothing to the eyebrows (yes to the eyebrows).
4) Apply on a thickening mascara (Givenchy's Phenomen'Eyes Mascara in 1 Phenomen'Black) to add full thickness to lashes.
5) Keep away from any eyeliner
6) Use a touch of orangy brown blusher (in this case, M.A.C's blusher in Gingerly) and use it to sculpt the face. Apply blusher below the cheekbones for definition.
7) For that stained warm brick colour on lips, dab on Clinique's Long Last Soft Shine Lipstick in Berry Freeze.
Basic Q&A
1) Can everyone pull it off?
-Yep, browns are the best colours for everyone and anyone, as browns are shades of skintones.
2) Should different skin tones use different shades of brown?
-Yep, the tanner the skin, the darker the browns. A light brown on darker skin might end up looking like a skintone colour.
3) Any special considerations we need to bear in mind?
-Using a neutral tone in brown shouldn't have that problem. Only brown hues with too much grey/cooler tones or reddish tones will make it emphasize the undereye circles. But then again each person's perception about how dark their undereye circle is subjective. I would say conceal the undereye area well enough and no eye makeup will look like a mistake.
Keeping the brown hues closer to the lash area is definitely a safe bet to keep the makeup mistake-proof.
4) Any makeup artist tips?
-Always even out the skintone enough, keeping the foundation minimum will keep the brown hues looking clean and modern. Layering on the liquid foundation and excessive powdering will bring the whole look back to the 90's! If the lipstick is too dark, stick to a lipbalm to give that sheen.
Common Beauty Mistakes
1. Using too light a shade of concealer around the eyes to hide dark undereye circles (resulting in a ring of “light” that makes you look like you have reverse panda eyes).
I hate that look. That occur when people still stick to methods from the late 80's / early 90's when we do not have proper coloured undereye concealers and the reverse panda eyes occur too when some traditonalist love using beige/white eye shadow on the eye circle which will also create the reverse panda look.
For undereyes circle, we always target to lighten what we see.
Redness on the eye area, a yellow based concealer.
Greyness/Blueness under the eyes will need a warm/peach based concealer.
Purpley under the eyes will need BOTH tones.
A good guide for the concealers will be that if there is a strange grey hue on the skin or the concealer appearing ashy on the undereye, IT IS TOO LIGHT and move on to the next darker colour.
For fair to medium dark skin, you can use a very light yellow loose powder to set the concealer.
For dark and deep dark skin, using a warm peachy LOOSE powder will work better.
2. Wearing too much eyeliner (especially around the entire eye), taking the smoky eye look a bit too far. (Does en-circling your eyes make them look smaller instead of larger? How should Asian women use eyeliner correctly to create the illusion of bright and bigger eyes?)
Drawing eyeliner to create an illusion of a bigger eye shape is defo smarter move than lining the whole eye black.
Picture someone with small eye which shows very little eye white, and picture the person lining the eyes top and bottom, including the water line, what happens? All we see is TWO big black DOTS. HAHAHAHAHAH... :)
The answer is that lining the eyes do not make it look bigger. It brings more focus to the eyes. Oriental faces have softer features, so by lining the eyes brings the eyes out but giving more depth to the eyes, hence the perceived view of bigger eyes. Our Indians and Malays sisters have the better genetics with the bigger eyes and longer lashes.
The general rule for MOST eyes out there is to draw a thicker line at the end of the eyeliner on the top lid. The thinner inner line moving to the thicker outer lined area gives the illusion of a bigger eye shape.
Use a light beige eyeliner to draw on the water line to increase the white of the eyes, hence "opening" the eyes bigger. Line the lower lash line with a dark brown or dark grey eyeliner just a touch at the eyeline to bring complete the look.
Add on a gunmetal grey or soft black on the lower lashline to bring the look into night.
Always complement the look with polished skin and DRAWN IN BROWS!
3. Trying to cover up oily/shiny complexion on the face by patting on more pressed powder/powder foundation (resulting in that cake-y look).
The cakey look appeared when excess oil is not removed before powdering.
Uss a tissue to dab away the excess oil before powdering, if powdering is even needed. Sometimes dabbing away the excess facial oil with a tissue will remove the sheen.
Or use a oil absorbing primer on the oilier skin areas before foundation application will help out to lengthen the time ebfore each touch up.
My current favourite is using SloaneInc's S9.3 24K Gold Skin Primer (avaliable from Sloane Clinic). This Primer smoothen the skin texture and have good oil control properties.
What are some of your secret techniques and favourite products to use to
1. Create bigger eyes
Use a very light golden shimmmery eye shadow, placing it just above the iris area (on the just applied eye shadow) My favourite colour so far is Urban Decay's eye shadow in SIN.
Follow on with an goldish eyeliner (a great option rather than white) and draw it on the lower lash WATER line. I love using Clarins Eye Pencil in 07 Gold.
2. Create plumped up, plush lips
Always create a dimensional lip by playing with textures and contours (depending on what colour lippie you're using, I will use the neutral colour as an example).
Use a neutral lip colour and line the lips before filling it all in with the lip pencil
putting a lighter colour on the pout of the lips before layering wiht an amazing lipgloss that is full of textured and shine for that pouty lips.
Products recommanded for lining and colouring in the lip with Estee Lauder Double Wear Stay-in-Place Lip Pencil in Rose, layering over with Laneige Limited Edition Snow Crystal Intense Lipstick in Matte Pink focusing on the fuller point of the lips before coating a layer of Too Faced Glamour Gloss in Peek-a-Boo for that amazing fullness.
3. Create shorter forehead
The same procedure as contouring the face. Using a darker powder (1 to 2 tones darker than your skin) and a small but full powder brush, sweep it upon the area where you need it to receed. Darker receed, lighter pops out.
I love using MAC Mineralize Skinfinish Natural Powder (in darker shades) and use it to contour the face for its beautiful powder that is neutral upon application.
4. Create slimmer nose
Instead of using a contour powder that with a heavy hand might end up looking like you are preparing for stage drag performance. Use highlighting instead, using a lighter tone of Lancome Teint Miracle Concealer, layer on the points of the nose bridge that you want to bring up higher and blend in with fingers by dabbing, this brings the nsoe shaper without the mistake of glarish nose contouring.
5. Hide/soften lines at the neck
Moisturise moisturise.. leave a thicker layer of moisturiser (i love Clinique Youth Surge Night Age Decelerating Night Moisturizer for its beautiful formula and texture) around the neck area like a "neck mask" for 15mins before rubbing it in. The moisturisation should soften the the look fine lines around the neck.
No other skincare can remove/hide lines around the neck. Only aesthetics can help, using Thermage, to firm up and increase skin collagen level to visiblity lessen wrinkling.
6. Hide enlarged pores
The only way is to cover the pores up with a silicone base makeup to lessen the look of it. When applied below foundation, care to put this primer only on the bigger pore, oilier skin area and NEVER to overmoisturise of foundation will pool in the pore making it look more obvious.
Using Cle De Peau's Smoothing Base for Pores, is what i love. This amazing texture with oil absorbing qualities keep the pore minimised. I know some fans who use it across the whole face... EVERYDAY!!!