Apr 25, 2011

Applying Eye makeup for Asians (prepared in May2010)

3 proper ways of applying eye makeup

To bring out the eyes more, we alwyas try to keep the skin looking polish and clean. A touch of concealer, drawn brows for facial definition, a touch of blush and even a wash of gloss or lipbalm can create an amazing clean look.

The eye colours used are all neutral brown tones as we want to create and play with depth. The shine/sheen is added in as an accent to bring out certain features. Alot of asians love glitter/shine on the eyes which I dislike as the shine create a flat shimmery surface and not a chic smartly highlighted eye focus.

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>Normal eye shape

1) Apply a base skin tone colour across the whole eye. In the makeup, I used MAC Eye Shadow in Brule as I love the soft sheen it has and the beautiful neutral colour that evens out the whole eye lid.

2) Using a taupe colour, we blend with a fluffy brush from the end and give the eye a slight contour to enhance the natural depth of the socket. I love using Shu Uemura Eye shadow in M810 (a matte taupe with golden flecks) for that shaping process.

3) Continue on the lower lashline by using a pencil brush and blending that same taupe colour on the lower lashline. This will give subtle enhancement to the eyes by giving focus.

4) To create a bigger brighter eye look, use Cle De Peu's satin eye colour in 103 Pink Gold. The warmer tone of this eye shadow will brighten the inner eyes, giving a fresh bushy eye look.

Leave the eye liner off, but sweep on one coat of mascara (brand placement please) to keep that natural look

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> Smaller, longer eyes

1) Neutralise the eyelid with Benefit's Stay Don't Stray (stay-put primer for concealers & eyeshadows) and also to hold the eye shadows longer.

2) I suggest using Givenchy's Le Prisme Yeux Mono in 14 Elegant Taupe so to have that depth (from using the matte texture out fo the 4 different textured powder), dab on each side of the eye and blend towards the eye socket.

3) Use the beautiful light apricot shimmer eye shadow from By Terry on the eye lid. Place it just above the pupil and blend towards the eye brow. This helps open up the eyes by bringing out a bigger surface area to the lighter part of the eye (the whites), hence bringing the pupil into focus.

4) Load on the mascara with Clinique's Lash Power Mascara Long Wearing Formula, the thinner wand is fantastic for the shorter asian lashes. Put up to 3 coats of it to have that oomph to the lashes!

TIP: Curl your lashes before mascara. To keep the lashes upwards, you have to allow the mascara formula to be drier. After taking the wand out from the tube, dab away any excess mascara on a clean tissue paper. Wave the wand around for about 3-4 seconds to dry it out. Zig zag to coat the lashes. Do the same step over 3 times, and you have beautfiully thick and LIFTED lashes!

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>Rounder eyes (to elongate)

1) Even out the skin colour and create a sheen by using Urban Decay's Eyeshadow Primer Potion in Sin.

2) Using a gel eyeliner (I enjoyed using the intense midnight blackness of Cel De Peu's Intensifying Cream eyeliner in 101 Deep Black), dot 3 TINY parts of the lash line; the front the centre and the end.

3) Using the eyeliner brush, join this three dots together into a thin line on the lashline. (using step 2 and 3 allows a easier way to apply for those novice or those of buttfer fingers by providing a "guideline".)

4) Elongate the end of the lashline extending the line out (use the lower lashline as a guide for the angling of the line). Then connect the end of that line to the centre of the line drawn, this will create a slight triangle. Colour in the triangle and viola! you have got yourself a eyeline with a tilt!

Proceed with alot of mascara to complete the look!
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Wrong makeup.
Things I hate when I see badly applied eye makeup.

1) Eye makeup without a polished finishing (no eye brows drawn, no even out skintone by using any foundation/concealer)
2) Eye makeup that is not properly blended or patchy.
3) No makeup at all, except for eyeliner on the lower lashline (that makes the face looks more depressive sucidal than to the conturary belief of "opening up" the eyes)
4) Too much mascara that resembles cockroach legs
5) Eye shadows that is blended too far from the end of the eyelid, which resulting in dragging down the eyes making the eyes looking droppy
6) Eyeliner top and bottom of the eyelids might not work to "make the eyes bigger" as some said, depending on the eye shape and size.

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